Crane Flock Embroidered Pants 'Tsurumure'

A flock of cranes embroidered up one leg of slate-blue joggers, three colours

Nine cranes, embroidered, rising up the right leg from the knee to the hip in white thread with grey-edged wings, on a slubbed grey-blue cloth with a drawstring waist and a gathered ankle. The left leg is plain. The birds are drawn in flight, wings at different angles, so the flock reads as a flock rather than a repeat. It comes in grey-blue, as in the photograph, in navy and in red.

It is the most embroidered pair in the collection and the calmest, because white cranes on a dull blue are the palette of a kimono rather than a jacket.

The name, Tsurumure, is the flock of cranes, the nine on the leg, and the name counts them.

The cut is a relaxed jogger with room through the thigh and an ankle that gathers on an elastic over the shoe, sitting at the waist on a drawstring. The cloth is a linen-look cotton blend with a slubbed, dry hand and a little weight, chosen because a print or an embroidery this fine needs a ground with body, and because the slub gives a plain colour somewhere to go. The cranes are embroidered, not printed, in satin stitch that stands off the cloth.

Wear them with a white tee and white trainers, as in the photograph, which is the outfit every pair in this collection was photographed in and the one they are all best in. A black tee in the evening, a haori or a sukajan over the top when it turns, and nothing else with a pattern below the waist.

They wash cold, inside out, and dry on a line; the cloth does not crease into a map and does not need an iron, which is the point of a trouser cut for a street rather than an office.

From across a street they are blue pants with pale birds up one leg. From close the cranes have every feather in thread and their wings show the grey edging, and the cloth shows its slub between them. They are the pair for someone who wants the crane on their trousers rather than their back.

The waist is a flat elastic with a drawstring in the same cloth, and the pockets are set in the side seams so nothing interrupts the birds. The gather at the ankle is an elastic in a channel, and it sits over a white sock.

Sizes run from M to 5XL. It is cut to Asian sizing and runs small, so take one size up from your usual. Between two sizes, take the larger.