Strapped Utility Chunky Sneakers 'Yoroi'

Chunky sneakers strapped across the foot like armour, in black or grey

Straps first, then the shoe. These sneakers carry bands across the upper from the heel to the toe, over a knit collar that hugs the ankle and a mesh body, with a lace threaded through, reflective panels at the side and a thick moulded sole. In all black, as in the photograph, they read as a single dark shape with texture; in grey and black, the panels separate and the straps show.

It is the most built-up sneaker in the collection and the one that looks most like it was designed for something, and the straps are what make it: they turn a chunky shoe into a piece of kit.

The name, Yoroi, is the armour, the plated kind the samurai wore, and the straps across the shoe are the plates.

The sole is a moulded rubber platform with a deep tread, the upper is a mix of mesh, synthetic panels and a knit collar, and the shoe is cushioned through the midsole, so it walks a city all day. It is the chunky sneaker, the shape Japan made its own, cut for a wide foot.

Wear them with a white sock pulled up, as in the photograph, which is how every pair in this collection was shot and how they are worn in Tokyo: the sock is part of the shoe. White trousers, black jeans, the cropped pants from the range, and nothing else on the foot that argues.

The knit collar pulls on like a sock and the lace and straps adjust over it, so the fit is snug at the ankle and adjustable across the foot. The reflective panels are small and grey, and they light up in a headlight.

The last is a Japanese one, wider at the toe box than a European sneaker and lower at the instep, which is part of why they run small: the length is short and the width is generous. A wide foot will be comfortable; a narrow one will want the thicker sock.

Wipe them with a damp cloth; do not machine wash. A soft brush for the mesh, a cloth for the panels, and they are ready for the next day.

From across a street they are black or grey shoes with a thick sole. From close the straps show their layers, the knit its rib, and the reflective panels their grey. They are the sneaker for the techwear trousers in the range, and for the person who owns a black jacket with straps on it.

Sizes run from EU 36 to 45. They are cut to Asian sizing and run small, so take one size up from your usual. Between two sizes, take the larger.